Coral Room offers bottomless mimosas and a bustling patio in warm weather.

When talk turns to brunch — as it inevitably does among my friends — it’s easy to call out people’s agendas. While one buddy favors the Sloan’s Lake joint with the killer eggs Bennies, another friend will not let me forget the perfect French toast at that cozy spot in Uptown.

My brunch indulgence: bottomless mimosas.

Is there a more perfect idea? Is there a more nuanced accessory to that fluffy quiche? Is there a better way to recover from the night before?

No. And while plenty of places throughout Denver offer the indulgent breakfast cocktails in unlimited form, the Coral Room gets points for presentation by bypassing the champagne glass and serving them in round red-wine glasses ($9), making for fewer refills and a more jovial clientele.

Especially as the weekends get warmer, the Coral Room (and its welcoming, bustling patio) is jovial to the max. Noshing on angelic biscuits and sausage gravy ($10) to their hearts’ desire, the brunch fans at the Coral Room (and their mimosa lubrication) create a fun, loud, bar-type environment.

As lovely as the food is, the atmosphere is hardly what you’d call civilized — and the sometimes-stuffy Coral Room welcomes the jubilant noise.

The just-like-Mom’s biscuits and gravy are this menu’s crowning achievement. It’s not as dense as it is lightly layered, and served with a couple of eggs, it’s quite satisfying. The two eggs your way ($7) is a basic treat, especially with the add-on of a side of green chile ($2.50). Avoid the breakfast burrito ($8), which should come smothered (Green chile? Salsa?) but doesn’t, in favor of the zingy chorizo scrambler torta ($8.50) or the delightfully sweet Frangelico French Toast ($7).

A couple of warnings, though. If you don’t want to wait for a table, get there early, as in before 11 a.m. If you do wait, take advantage of the bottomless mimosas in the bar area, but don’t try taking them outside the marked patio area. Also, the service during these hours can be particularly spotty, especially between noon and 2 p.m.

CORAL ROOM
American. 3489 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-2535. Brunch: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Dinner: 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday- Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Bar open till 2 a.m. on weekends. Brunch prices: $7-$14. Mastercard and Visa.

Front burner. These are the kind of biscuits and gravy you dream about the night before.

Back burner. The later it gets in the afternoon, the worse the service gets. If you like your food hot and your mimosa glass full, get there early.

– Ricardo Baca