Complicated, addictive sauces and impeccable ingredients star on the menu of this Indian restaurant that turns vegetarian food into a nuanced feast.
Dining critics and regulars rave about the creamy saag paneer, a luscious soupy blend of white, tofu-like cheese cubes and more than a dozen spices. Masalaa’s saag paneer won over my daughter, age 11, who normally shuns spinach, removing spinach shreds from soup or souffles with the meticulousness of an archaeologist picking dirt from a potsherd.
We came for Masalaa’s staggering Sunday lunch buffet, a spread of gorgeously hued vegetable, chick-pea and lentil offerings, rice, salad, lentil pancakes and those weird pastel-colored puddings that look like rejects from a Methodist potluck — a gustatorial remnant of the indignities that the English visited upon its former colony.
Instead, focus on the appetizers and main dishes. The vada (fried lentil pancakes and donuts) are crunchy, yummy and filling. Try at least two kinds of curry, along with the day’s korma (a satiny coconut-based sauce) and a couple of the masalas (potato, vegetable, chick-pea, okra) to expand your culinary horizons. Save space on your plate for the fragrant, tender rice, which helps mitigate the heat of some spices.
Discipline yourself to take only a spoonful or so of each choice instead of piling your plate high. Return visits to the buffet are part of the price, and a table-side-served dosa — a generous crepe filled with potatoes and other veggies — is included in the meal.
Masalaa serves beer and wine, but the best beverage for this food is a lassi (about $3) or chai tea (about $2). South Indian ginger coffee (about $2) is available for caffeine addicts with experimental palates.
After the meal, walk down to visit Bombay Bazaar, the Indian market in the same modest strip mall. The inventory of prepared frozen food, canned products and spices is as impressive as its assortment of Bollywood movies and music.
3140 S. Parker Road, Aurora; 303-755-6272 Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. — 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday 11:30 a.m. — 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Saturday noon to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday noon to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.
Front burner: Complex sauces, all-vegetarian buffet and menu, plus gluten-free menu.
Back burner: Can be pricey — one dosa (an Indian variation on the burrito) costs $7.50.
– Claire Martin
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Having been to many different Indian restaurants around the US, I have to say that Masalaa’s rates in my top 5 (it is actually # 2 on my list). There is no other place in the Denver metro area where you can find a great Masalaa Dosa as the ones served here. Just keep in mind that the portions are big. I ordered take out for my wife, son and I and walked out with two large bags filled with enough food to feed a small city.
Comment by Outdooradventurer — April 28, 2008 @ 3:25 pm
Nice review – there’s just one small problem.
That photograph is *NOT* of the food at Masalaa. I have no idea where it is, but Masalaa does not use either those bowls or those glasses (water is served in metal cups).
Also, as someone who has been there on multiple occasions, I can safely say I have never seen a dish that looks even remotely like the one in that photo.
Please put an accurate photo with this review. I would hate for someone to see that and go there with the wrong idea.
Thank you,
Comment by Mippity J. Smith — December 19, 2009 @ 11:20 pm
Just one more thing.
Maslaa is a completely vegetarian restaurant. This dish shown in the picture clearly has meat in it.
Again, please put an accurate picture with this review. It is incredibly misleading. Thank you.
Comment by Mippity J. Smith — December 20, 2009 @ 8:34 am
Fixed the picture, sorry about that. There weren’t any hi-res enough pics on their website so I grabbed a stock photo of an Indian vegetarian dish, but now it’s just a variety of Indian spices…
Comment by John Wenzel — December 21, 2009 @ 12:35 pm