“People are still coming,” said our server at Relish restaurant in downtown Breckenridge, “but they are spending less.”

No surprise, considering Relish’s pricey menu that includes the “Ten Dollar Potato Chip,” which is, in fact, three potato chips, topped with a few shavings of Oregon truffle and a spoonful of caviar. Such indulgences, while tasty and memorable, seem, perhaps, outre.

But there’s very little wrong with the soft, meaty beef shortrib under a pile of pine-nut gremolata, or the tender scallops surrounding a toss of winter radishes, or the flavorful venison medallions with sweet potato and chard. And there’s nothing at all wrong with the robust, California-heavy wine list.

Relish, housed on the second floor of a South Main Street building, will peak this weekend, when the International Snow Sculpture Championship contestants unveil their creations for judges just outside the window. Book a table by the window, and watch the tourists pose in front of the elaborate sculptures as you sip a glass of post-supper port.

Early evenings at Relish are characterized by families with kids, but the place takes on a more relaxed, grown-up air during the second seating, which is when you (if you’re kidless) should eat.

Relish is not cheap. Entrees run from $17 to $30. But where some high-country restaurants charge similar prices for lower-quality cooking, Relish, clearly helmed by a talented team, delivers value.

(Note to management: What’s with the gum-chomping servers? Your restaurant is much too good for that, and service is otherwise professional and refined. Ixnay on the ewingchay, please. It’s beyond tacky.)

– RELISH –

Contemporary. Dinner only. 137 S. Main St., Breckenridge, 970-453-0989, relishbreckenridge.com.

–Tucker Shaw