Familiar and familial, Bisetti’s is a Northern Colorado gem. Photo by Kristen Browing-Blas.

After 30 years in business, Bisetti’s does not serve surprises. The Fort Collins restaurant has played it slow and steady, serving house-made minestrone, pasta and red sauce, with a candle in a Chianti bottle on every table.

This is familiar, familial food. When Bob and Anita Bisetti opened their restaurant in 1979, the place sat 50 people. Anita cooked her family’s southern-Italian recipes — eggplant parm, lasagna, spaghetti.

Their son Robert and his wife, Heather, bought the restaurant in 1988 and expanded it to seat 175. The space is divided by sliding wood and glass doors into small rooms decorated with rustic chandeliers, faux plaster finishes and murals of Italian country scenes.

Although it’s on street level in Old Town, the space has a subterranean feel, with dark woods and exposed brick walls. A wood-topped bar in the front of the restaurant offers a cozy spot for a drink if you’re not up for a full meal.

The family has built a loyal clientele and connections throughout northern Colorado.

This week, Heather Bisetti will present the proceeds of the restaurant’s “30 for $30″ anniversary promotion to nonprofits CASA and Harmony House. (She plans to run the $30-for-two special off and on through the year.)

Bisetti expects to give about $2,000 to the organization that works with abused and neglected children. “It’s near and dear to my heart. I was raised around abused and neglected children and experienced some of that firsthand, so I wanted to give back,” she says.

Every town needs (and most likely has) a restaurant like Bisetti’s. Who knows how long some of the chains will stay open — take a chance on your neighborhood Italian joint. You won’t be surprised, but you will be full. And you’ll be supporting a local business that in turn supports your community.

Kristen Browning-Blas: 303-954-1440 or kbrowning@denverpost.com

– BISETTI’S RISTORANTE –

Italian. Lunch and dinner daily. 120 S. College Ave., Fort Collins, 970-493-0086; bisettis.com.

– Kristen Browning-Blas