Intermission Cafe, a 7-month-old deli between Glenarm and Tremont on 17th, fulfills a serious need in central downtown.

Downtown Denver’s steely spine isn’t exactly known as a culinary destination. Despite a few mainstay restaurants and delis along 17th Street, workers often need to head a block or two in either direction to fill their bellies.

Intermission Cafe, a 7-month-old deli between Glenarm and Tremont on 17th, could easily escape notice, but like many of Denver’s most unassuming eateries, it rewards a closer look.

The place does brisk breakfast business, lines snaking around a wooden island topped with baked goods. The spinach and feta omelette ($5.49) hints at an upscale bent, but there are also solid huevos rancheros ($5.29), a Denver omelette ($5.49) and simple biscuits and gravy ($2.29).

The clean, warm space is adorned with local art and boasts lots of retreat spots, making it a handy morning meeting place. Come lunch, a shifting selection of soups take over, from chicken noodle (hearty but salty at $2.99 a cup) to clam chowder and chicken cheesy tortilla. They perfectly complement a topping-heavy gourmet baked potato ($5-$5.50) or hand-tossed salad ($5.50-$6.50).

Co-owner Mitchell Ching took his dad’s advice and started offering a selection of Asian daily specials, including pad Thai, Korean barbecue and orange chicken. “My wife is Thai, so it’s basically whatever we know how to cook well,” Ching said.

Still, the sandwiches are the main event, with their giant, carefully folded ribbons of meat. The Italian-inspired Florence and the Denver Roast Beef do justice to their delicious wheat hoagie buns and zesty homemade sauces.

– Intermission Cafe –

American/Asian. 444 17th St., 303-798-6600 or intermissioncafe.com. Open 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday; 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturday.